Friday, July 25, 2014

Bear Creek hike to Grizzly Mine

LedgeMy friends had two particular hikes in mind, but we had three days, so we asked the proprietor of the local gear shop for advice - something for three fit hikers, but one that wouldn't tax the poor sea-level gal. One of his suggestions was the Bear Creek trail as far as the Grizzly Mine, 2.4 miles one way, which didn't go above 10,000 feet.

The trail began by crossing the highway over a tunnel before heading up the side of a canyon. The first half or so is cut into a steep slate hillside. While the trail was rocky, it was flat slate that clinks pleasantly underfoot. The walls of the canyon were so severe that there were impressive views even in the trees. Eventually, the trees petered out altogether. The trail was exposed along the right side, although the trail was wide enough to assuage anxiety. (Mind you, I wouldn't want to do it drunk or at night.) We reached the remains of the mine and poked around. The mine shaft was actually visible, although gated and locked.

LedgeThe trail is named for the creek it runs above, but the key is "above" - we would have had to rappel down several hundred feet to refresh our water bottles. As we hiked, we mused about how hard it would have been to build the trail; turns out the trail was built by miners, in places using dynamite.

The hike was sparser in vegetation than the rest of our hikes, which made it interestingly different. There were a few wildflowers, actually, but it's not a flower hike. Do this one for the spectacular views and the ledge-walking, which looks much more fearsome in photos than it does on the trail.

Thursday, July 24, 2014

Perimeter Trail hike around Ouray

Above Ouray I'm in beautiful Colorado right now. I spent the first four days of the trip hiking with old Nashville Hiking Meetup friends who live in the Denver area. On Sunday we drove out to Ouray, a really beautiful tiny town with mountains looming over it. After finding a hotel and having dinner, we decided to take a short postprandial stroll. The Perimeter Trail, which circles the city, was close by; Friend C had done part of it before and said it wasn't amazing, but it would get us started.

We walked up the street (a literal statement) to where we could connect with the trail on the west side of town. This part of the trail was very nice. First, there were views of town (pictured). Then, we entered Box CaƱon, where the rock walls narrowed in close and a waterfall tumbled down. Finally, we thought we'd catch another loop of trail before heading back into town.

Unfortunately, the last bit took longer than anticipated; we think we wandered onto the Ice Park trail by mistake. In any case, we were quickly running out of light, so when we intersected the highway we took it back into town.

While these numbers aren't precise, we figured we hiked 3-4 miles with about 500 feet of elevation change. Now, this was actually the second-easiest hike we did all trip - the first easiest being a 1/4 mile jaunt. However, it was the hardest for me. I was working on two hours of sleep, had been up since 3 a.m. Eastern, and had been at sea level that morning. Spoiler: A good night's sleep would work wonders for the next day.

The hike was quite nice, though, and Friend C agreed it was much better than what she had seen elsewhere on the trail.

Thursday, July 17, 2014

Harriman traverse

HikingOn Sunday I hiked with the Ramblers across Harriman State Park, west to east. We started in Arden and ended in Mt. Ivy for a total of 16 miles.

The hike itself was pretty but nothing spectacular. The views typically available at Big Hill shelter was obscured by the grey weather, and otherwise we were mostly hiking through forest, with the occasional interesting rock formation.

The final leg of the hike left Harriman and entered Cheesecote Park, then left that park and followed the Palisades Interstate Parkway. At the scale of the NY-NJ Trail Conference maps, it looks as if the road is the trail, hardly a good idea on the PIP. In fact, the route goes through the woods next to the parkway, but it's quite miserable. Someone slapped up some blazes and called it a trail, rather than doing the hard work of grading, smoothing, and otherwise making the ground treadworthy. It's essentially bushwhacking with signs.

While not the most spectacular hike I've done, the weather held off and we didn't get rained on, and the company was good.

Tuesday, July 1, 2014

Catskills: Logistics

Notch PondUntil now, I hadn't been to the Catskills for lack of a car. It's not readily accessible by mass transit - although that doesn't mean it can't be done. I saw Trailways buses in both Tannersville and Phoenicia. Still, it would be a hike to any campsite. That doesn't mean it can't be done. John at the Hunter fire tower told me about a 71-year-old retired teacher from Queens who had done all the Catskills 3500 peaks via bus, train, hitchhiking, etc. Furthermore, she had done what he called "the grid" - each of those 35 peaks in each of the 12 months of the year. You do the math on that one.

My commitment to car-free living isn't as rigorous as that, though. I merely took a train to Poughkeepsie and rented a car there. (I had zero desire to drive out of Manhattan.)

That meant, though, that I had to keep my equipment light; not quite backpacking weight, but I only had a large suitcase and a day pack. Practically speaking, that meant buying food in Poughkeepsie and, perhaps more importantly, no cooler: I drew the line at buying and tossing a cheap styorofoam cooler. No comfy camp chairs, no endless wardrobe choices.

I chose to stay at Devil's Tombstone, which is a primitive campground near North-South Lake. "Primitive" is accurate: pit toilets, pumps but no running water, no RV hookups. The pictures on Reserve America made it look quite pretty. And you can drive a few miles and shower at North-South Lake. I hoped a primitive site would have quieter campers.

What the pictures don't make clear is that the pretty little pond at Devil's Tombstone is in the day use area, not within view of the campsites. It was my bad luck, further, that the two sites across from mine were occupied by one large group of college kids. Their idea of camping was to drink beer, adorably struggle to make fire, and go on one hike without being adequately provisioned and then moan about it. Oh, yeah, and to play their music until 2:30 in the morning, even though quiet hours start at 10 p.m. - the attendant on duty Friday night did nothing to keep the sound down. Saturday was better. Sunday night it was remarkably quieter, as nearly everyone left.

Next time I'd stay at North-South Lake. The sites are just as nice, the noise didn't seem to be any louder - rather more kids, though, I'd expect - and it's worth not having to drive just to flush the toilet and shower off the grime.

Monday, June 30, 2014

Fahnestock State Park hike

Canopus and LaurelI spent my last day at Fahnestock State Park, about halfway between the city and the Catskills. My body was tired, so I spent Wednesday morning doing an easy hike, just 2.3 miles each way on the Appalachian Trail. The hike ended with a view of Canopus Lake, which was nice, but the real highlight was the mountain laurel, which peaks at the end of June. I could hardly pass that up.

The surprise here was how nice the campground was. I had a really pretty site, but all the sites were attractive. There are bathhouses (although my shower was cold), a nature center, a lake with a beach and rowboats for rent, as well as a pond. The pond was much prettier than the lake, and I ate lunch there before heading home. It would be a nice park for a weekend getaway from New York city, especially if the entire group wasn't rabid hikers.